Leaving Delhi can be a hassle, just ignore anyone who tries to stop you from getting into the train station. They’ll grab you at times, but shrug it off. So, after the train ride and a day and a half of lying prostrate on a glorified camping mat atop a piece of plywood the sickness had subsided. We were ready to go see the Taj Mahal. On the way there you’ll pass rubble, garbage heaps and homeless people lighting trash on fire to stay warm, but the Taj itself is gorgeous and impressive. Agra Fort is worth seeing, but after that the city didn’t have a whole lot to offer besides the fear of getting sick if we stayed much longer. So back to the railway station filled with grifters and then a train ride to Amritsar in Punjab. Upon landing in Amritsar it seemed cleaner. In fact it was. That’s not saying a whole lot, but the garbage heaps were fewer and smaller and the streets were mostly paved or at least clutter-free and somewhat level. People are nicer – It’s a needed change from Delhi and Agra where anyone that wants to talk to you is just trying to scam you.